I was in Franklin NC I'd just hiked about 100 miles on the AT that year and got a bad staph infection, I went to the clinic and got a scrip for an antibiotic milkshake which I sat in the Burger King psyching myself up to drink it for a full 2 hours. Finally I did and it wasn't quite so bad.
Somehow I had the idea of heading to the Ocala rainbow gathering, I started hitching and got a ride from this super-cool cat Travis, he took me back to his spread in a place called Big Muddy which is way back in the hills outside Leicester. His wife was in Michigan at a funeral and his kid was at the grandparents' outside Atlanta, so it was just me and him. We shot his guns and rode his dirtbikes, watched the Dukes of hazzard remake, cut a bunch of bamboo and brush, smoked weed drank beer, etc.
After a few days I headed to Asheville and a bunch of chicks that went to the midwifery school there pointed me to the trainyard, I fucked around there most of the day checking out rides, I was still dumb at that point of course and thought moving around every hour would somehow cause a train to come pick me up. I went back and forth to the little abandoned cinderblock shack on the southwest corner a bunch, at some point I saw a white SUV coming and ran, never saw it again. A few hours later a wood chip train rolls in!
100 loaded wood chip cars and 1 empty boxcar. Hopped up in the boxcar at maybe 5 miles an hour, heart pounding, chest flat on the steel. Hot sunny day in March. Only time I have ever thrown my pack onto a moving train before I got my body on.
Of course I had to wave to some fuckers on the golf course...I scanned the trackside for any attractive female I could swagger for. I was on my first train and damn if it wasn't the best thing ever.
Losing my virginity was not half as enjoyable, even if it was with a smoking hot bitch, on a rooftop, she made all the right noises, and volunteered for doggystyle. Right then and there I was addicted to trainriding at 18. I'd fantasized about it for at least 5 or 6 years. Tried hopping on one in LaCrosse WI the fall before...I was way too far outside the yard and the moving doublestack intimidated me like fuck.
Once in Sault Ste Marie Ontario. Waited all night long watched switching moves and then had it roll away without me. My folks had ridden a few trains in the 70s and told me their war stories. I stole every single Utah Phillips album from the local Borders, read every single story on northbankfred.com, and interrogated every single crusty looking individual I met.
For a few months I'd had a copy of the fabled Crew Change Guide, my friend had procured from a Canadian hippy bus in Montreal "The Weasels". I lost it, on all places, Amtrak about a year before. What would I do without that thing? It was years later before ReddCapp kindly posted a shittily scanned version on the web (you missed like 6 pages dude) and I printed it out.
The boxcar rolled back and forth port to starboard. There were bangs and crashes and all the crazy train air line noises that I now find so familiar. My veins coursed with adrenaline. It was so exciting. We rolled into the town of Canton in about 15 miles....stopped on a crossing. A man in a black uniform poked his head in. "Come on out".
The bull was a nice man who enjoyed fucking with me. Looking back he could clearly tell I was green. "Now don't touch that knife in your pocket or I'll have to shoot you". He wrote me a yellow paper warning that I kept for some time before losing it.
Years later, in Chicago, I ran into another Norfolk Southern cop, he ran my name in the company database and Canton, NC comes up. They store your name forever.
It turned out I was on the infamous Canton turn. There is a paper mill the size of a small mountain there. If you ever see a wood chip train in Asheville, don't bother. It turns off the Knoxville line to the Canton spur quite soon.
I slept in the woods behind someone's house and hitched down I-40 to Davenport Gap the next frigid morning.I got back on the Appalachian Trail and walked and walked and walked. It had been just the off-trail adventure I needed. I finished the AT that year