Deciding between 2 vans...

dprogram

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You should have him get the CEL read before you buy it. If it's been on for a good while and he has had no problems if could be something like a gear slipping in the tranny, which would be bad news.
Check Engine Light? Well I didn't drive it yesterday b/c the guy was out of town and it was parked at his dads. His dad had just had major surgery so he couldnt get around very well and I didn't want to ask him to get in so I could test drive it. I'll test drive it tomorrow and take it out on the highway for a bit and make sure the engine gets hot and all then come back and check everything again to make sure there are no leaks and whatnot. I started it yesterday and let it sit for awhile running. Then cut it off and checked everything again to make sure it was not leaking anywhere and it was fine. A Check Engine Light can come for a multitude of reasons so I'm hoping it's just something simple. Doesn't the computer make you take it to the dealer every so often for an inspection. What I mean is...there doesn't always have to be something wrong with the car for it to actually come on right? Just an indication that it needs to be taken to the dealer for it 60k mile belt inspection or something?
 

suprhromnn

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Check Engine Light? Well I didn't drive it yesterday b/c the guy was out of town and it was parked at his dads. His dad had just had major surgery so he couldnt get around very well and I didn't want to ask him to get in so I could test drive it. I'll test drive it tomorrow and take it out on the highway for a bit and make sure the engine gets hot and all then come back and check everything again to make sure there are no leaks and whatnot. I started it yesterday and let it sit for awhile running. Then cut it off and checked everything again to make sure it was not leaking anywhere and it was fine. A Check Engine Light can come for a multitude of reasons so I'm hoping it's just something simple. Doesn't the computer make you take it to the dealer every so often for an inspection. What I mean is...there doesn't always have to be something wrong with the car for it to actually come on right? Just an indication that it needs to be taken to the dealer for it 60k mile belt inspection or something?

It can, yes. But at 130k miles there's no inspection that would be due on the CEL (You were right, Check Engine Light). I forget this living in Hawaii (we don't have this service there >.<) but since you're in the real US you should be able to take it to a checkers or autozone and get the CEL read for free. Call around to find a parts store close to you that will do that, and have him get it read.

At 130k I'd think it might be a little more serious of a problem if it hasn't been regularly taken care of. It shouldn't be a checkup at that mileage; however it could be something as simple as a misfire due to a poorly gapped spark plug, or on the other hand, it could be a nasty surprised like an unfelt slipping tranny or running rich/lean...

No way to know without getting it read. I personally wouldn't go near a vehicle with the CEL on without knowing what error codes it's spitting out.
 

dprogram

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It can, yes. But at 130k miles there's no inspection that would be due on the CEL (You were right, Check Engine Light). I forget this living in Hawaii (we don't have this service there >.<) but since you're in the real US you should be able to take it to a checkers or autozone and get the CEL read for free. Call around to find a parts store close to you that will do that, and have him get it read.

At 130k I'd think it might be a little more serious of a problem if it hasn't been regularly taken care of. It shouldn't be a checkup at that mileage; however it could be something as simple as a misfire due to a poorly gapped spark plug, or on the other hand, it could be a nasty surprised like an unfelt slipping tranny or running rich/lean...

No way to know without getting it read. I personally wouldn't go near a vehicle with the CEL on without knowing what error codes it's spitting out.
Good advice. I'll take it to the nearest Autozone on my trip out to see what it is. I'm sure the guy will be hesitant to do this with me but I'm sure he'll understand since $2500 isn't just chump change. Thanks for the advice!
 

dprogram

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I didnt take it ti Autozone but the van is fine!. I'll figure it out or take it later on. I changed the oil and the van runs excellent. Shifts smooth. Good power. Heat and AC work. This should last me a long time. I plan on doing a conversion thread once I start converting it. I'll be vandwelling tomorrow night in Memphis. Anyone want to meet up? j/k
 

Eager

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One is a Chevy and the other is a Dodge. I could use some advice as there are pros and cons to both. I prefer Chevy b/c i know how to work on them and I'm familiar with the general setup. This Dodge however has had a lot of repairs done and the owner has the receipts.

Chevy - 1989 Chevy G20 Classic Van. 121,000 Miles. One owner. Engine and transmission great. Interior is superb. Must see. Only thing van needs is paint and very minor work. Drive it away with clean title in hand.
http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/2865172713.html

Dodge - I recently got an oil change, tune up, new breaks, adjusted rear back, 2 wheel suspension alignment, fuel pressure regulator, dist acp & rotor, fuel filiter and steering repairs. I have receipts to show. The van has a very good motor and transmission. The tires & the battery is good. The body is in pretty good shape, there is no rust. The is one seat in the back, but the rest can always be replaced.The van runs very good. All it need is TLC.
http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/2865292913.html

Any help on deciding is appreciated!

Hey, I'm actually from Memphis, and have been rubbertrampin with my partner in an RV for a little over a year now. I say forget getting a van, converting it, and goin "stealth"; just buy an older small class C RV, its a lot cheaper, the equipment inside it is more reliable, and it makes for a way nicer place to live (vans are fine for sleeping, but hanging out all scrunched up -- fuck that).
 

austinoram

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The passenger van has a lot of windows for you not to stand out if you don't want to give a burglar a reason to take your stuff. Cover the windows and you call the attention of the police. I would otherwise advise against the conversion van due to the bulk of unnecessary stuff. If you're going to gut it anyway then get the passenger van for less time, money and energy - although you could sell parts from the conversion if possible. They are ice boxes in winter and a sauna in summer so a little more space (without an AC) is ideal with the passenger van. It's also lighter so you'll get better mpg.
Take them both for a test drive. To make the ultimate decision take both to a mechanic to take a look, should be no problem for the seller to allow you to do so. And finally do not pay the asking price. Don't low-ball them but do not pay asking price. Offer $200 less, cash, at the right time.. they really want it sold, and most likely added that $200 to begin with. That's business. Good luck.

Also don't store the batteries in your cabin as they release toxic fumes from time to time.
 
L

LeftCoast

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So you decided getting the E150 :D :D :D I'm stoked you chose a Ford. SUPER EASY TO WORK ON. Man, you should really put up some pictures so we can take a look and compare :D Man, that didn't sound a little too gay now did it?
 

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