# Is this a steal for $5,500?



## autumn (Apr 16, 2015)

From their post:

1989 Allegro



> Specifications:
> 
> Chevrolet Astro body and frame (aluminum skin and frame for RV section)
> V-6 Engine-76,300 miles (gets about 15 MPG)
> ...


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## sandpaper cowboy (Apr 16, 2015)

seems like it. looks pretty rad to me.


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## Matt Derrick (Apr 16, 2015)

i like it. what year is it?


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## Kim Chee (Apr 16, 2015)

Depends on how well the work was done.

76k miles original on engine and body?
Does he have maintenance records?


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## autumn (Apr 16, 2015)

Matt Derrick said:


> i like it. what year is it?





7xMichael said:


> Depends on how well the work was done.
> 
> 76k miles original on engine and body?
> Does he have maintenance records?



1989 Allegro, sorry, adding to original post

And yeah, original engine and body I think. I don't know if they have maintenance records, I haven't contacted them yet. Wanted to run it by you guys first


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## Yung yeek (Apr 16, 2015)

Looks awesome if everything runs good and theres no ants


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## Durp (Apr 16, 2015)

No way. Not unless it has a new transmission with recipes For all maintenance. I'd pay no more than $2k.


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## Kim Chee (Apr 16, 2015)

Pay particular attention to inspection:
http://www.frugal-rv-travel.com/Buying-A-Used-RV.html

Conversion vans have fewer amenities but are a little more low-key.


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## Kim Chee (Apr 16, 2015)

Also this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=198...ei=1IIwVePFJavHsQSMoYAQ&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&dpr=2


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## Durp (Apr 16, 2015)

Rvs are one of those things that aren't worth nearly as much as people who own it think they are worth. Plus pushin that much weight with an astro 6 cyl set up, I bet the torque converter and trans is suspect at best.


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## autumn (Apr 17, 2015)

7xMichael said:


> Also this:
> https://www.google.com/search?q=198...ei=1IIwVePFJavHsQSMoYAQ&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&dpr=2



Thanks for the links Michael!



JimH1991 said:


> Rvs are one of those things that aren't worth nearly as much as people who own it think they are worth. Plus pushin that much weight with an astro 6 cyl set up, I bet the torque converter and trans is suspect at best.



Don't suppose there's a way to haggle them down to 2k... it's the only RV I've looked at that doesn't have a shitty fucked up interior, w/ a shower and toilet.


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## Durp (Apr 17, 2015)

Those are The easy and cheap things to fix. Call a shop and have them inspect it. New paint is $10 a can if you pay for it, toliet $20 off craigslist. Transmission work, atleast $3000 since it is an rv so you will be gouged.


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## Durp (Apr 17, 2015)

With that attitude you won't. If they are sane they will take $3k. Bring cash a nd don't be afraid to walkaway. A shop will bend you over backwards if your rig breaks down. Unless you have tools and can fix it, you are better off with a van. Any auto shop will work on a van. Hardly anyone will touch a class c, and if they do your getting charged double. The worst thing ever is having your trans shit in the middle of fucking nowhere. You will have to pay atleast $200 just to get it towed since you will have to have a semi hauler bail you out.


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## creature (Apr 17, 2015)

Def *not* a 'steal'..
76,000 is high, esp. on a 6 cyl, pulling weight..

$4,000 probably about $500 more than than a reasonable asking price..
as he noted, the pictures are not current, and the lighting suggests the interior shots were also taken at the same time, when his build was fresh.

at 50,000 miles, $5,500 would have been a bit high, but not unreasonable..

at 76,000 you can expect something to shit in 10,000 miles or less.. 70,000 is the twilight of having worry free comfort for *any* gasoline engine..
not saying it won't get another 100k, but there are 'minor' items; alternator, hoses, belts, AC, etc., & then there is major shit..

an RV is a good thing to have, but you need to consider how you'll be using it;

if it's going to be a hard-core, semi-off road exploratory platform, that's one thing..
a general base camp for rural/camping use, is another..
an urban yard/street camper, another..
& then, the occasional road tripper..

as *general rules of thumb*:
if you are looking for something to travel in that will weather well in all types of climate, you should look for an all steel or possibly all aluminum body..

the old Doge Xplorers had pretty good fiberglass roofs, but they're an exception to the rule..
avoid flat, seemed roofs entirely, if you think you'll be living in the thing for any long periods where there's substantial rain, unless it's been garaged...

if you really want something rugged, and something that can be worked on, you might want to look for a 1970-1985 vintage RV..
an Xplorer, or a Travco, for instance..

These are not stealth vehicles, & you may be looking at about 10-12mpg, but they are rugged, can dissuade bears, look pretty cool & are user serviceable, if you have tools & knowledge..

these are just ideas to poke around at, so you get an idea of price & configurations..

if you need stealth, than an empty extended van is the way to go..
a lot of room in an RV is wasted, simply because you can't move shit around..
the bed is the bed, the bathroom the bathroom, the stove stays where it is..

if you don't have much stuff, that's fine, but if you are doing +20,000 mile, 6 month road trips, you need to make sure you have space for tools..
if you *can't* work on a vehicle, DO NOT get an RV.. get a japanese (toyota) 4 cylinder wagon, put a cargo carrier on top of it & go.

carry a *full* spare, a jack & lug-wrench, a tire repair kit, an electric air pump, a decent tool box with professional to semi-pro grade tools, a gallon of coolant, minimum, a tow rope, 2.5 gallons of gas, jumper cables (& preferably a jump box) and an electrical repair kit, MINIMUM..

after that you can think about what goes in your backpack ; )


all this depends on if you are going to travel, or if you are looking for a place to settle down.

if you want someplace to hang your hat, then a boxier, less robust RV is ok..
if you want something to tour in, look for something with under 60,000 miles.. preferably in the 40k-ish range or less, if possible..
they are out there in the 4-5 thousand dollar range, but you need to look..

in any case the RV you're looking at is over priced.
i think maybe the full shower is one of the items appealing to you?

a full standup shower (if that's what it is) is unusual in a class b rv, but not worth the extra $2500..

typically what you get in a fully self contained class b is a small toilet closet, and sit on the toilet seat lid with a pressurized shower-hose, albeit that with the extension and modifications it's now more of a class c..


anyways..

if you know what you want to do with whatever vehicle you get, post up..

talk to you soon,

j


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## Durp (Apr 17, 2015)

What's your main useage going to be? Have you thought about a diesel truck, stick shift with a bed camper? For that much dough you can get into something really awsome and dependable if you are super choosy.


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## Deleted member 20 (Apr 17, 2015)

I like it. I dont think I would pay that much. but it is clean & bright so someone will. I am unsure how/if you have $6k-$7500 for a motorhome but that is what it may end up costing with insurance etc. I think if you could land that thing for $3500 you would be doing great!. I also think there are better stealth vehicles but fuck it, if you somehow have that amount of money than buy it. If you wanted to look around & potentially do some converting yourself you could find something else that will require more time & money but end up costing about the same when its done. I think that the astro van/gmc safari chasis are cheap & great little vans. I have seen countless toyota dolphins/ mini winnies with the 4 cyclinder renault diesel broke down or dead on the road due to inferior motors. I am an advocate for diesel for long term/high miles but maintaining & repairing a diesel (especially a renault engine is tough). I think that trial & error experiences builds on our personal knowledge but we have to make our own mistakes in order to learn. If you have a drivers license & that amount of money then fuck it go right ahead. 

All of the advice is from rubber tramps that have experience that they obviously acquired through trial & error but expecting a brand new tranny is unreasonable. Having tools in order to do repairs is a great idea unless you dont know how to use them? I never pay more than an item is worth even though greedy people will put a price thats twice as much often. I think that its age & the price range will have most buyers as a family who wants to use this a few weekends a year & has no experience RVing. Go fo it & tell us how it works.


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## East (Apr 17, 2015)

I'd been thinking hard about getting a class B but I started realizing I could live just as comfortably in any full sized van. I personally went with a conversion van and modified the bed to make it comfortable for two, bought a camco toilet, two burner camp stove, little buddy heater and a gym membership (for showering) and I'm set. There's even a spot for me to hang my clothes and plenty of storage under the bed. More options for sleeping the night away without being hassled or obvious. An RV may limit you somewhat depending on your plans.


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## Jaguwar (Apr 17, 2015)

Wow in getting a ton of info I need too, thanks!


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## Durp (Apr 17, 2015)

I personally think a mechanical deisel is the most reliable and easiest thing to fix other than an air cooled vw. Acvw s burn up, a properly maintained and tuned old naturraly asperated deisel (if its an ih, cat, or even cummins) will easily keep rolling past 400k with basic matenince. There is no replacement for displacement. The bigger your engine the less strain you will put on it. I would avoid anything with a turbo, unless you are a true grease monkey. Turbo deisel engines like to gernade when they go and there is a good chance you're looking at a full over haul. Avoid electronic deisels like the fucking plague unless you know your shit. I rock a 6.9l idi f 250 and get around 19 20 mpg when running #2 empty. Towing my full rig ( a heavy 28ft er) I get between 18 and 19 on straght #2. Granted, this is because I'm obbsessive about maintaining her, and have changed some things from stock for better economy. I've had 2 vans, they are a pia to work on, same with a flat nose class c. The cool thing about an old inderect injection engine is you can run damn near anything that will combust under compression. I'm not going to tell you what I run for fuel because then there will be a shortage just like used veg oil.


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## Odin (Apr 17, 2015)

the 6.9... I would be really interested in your opinion on the 7.3 @JimH1991 I have not wrenched on diesel in a long time but I bet I could get that going. The 7.3 is what I'm always keeping an eye out for van wise.


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## Durp (Apr 17, 2015)

the 7.3 is a great engine if it was properly taken care of. They have thinner cylinder walls than the 6.9 so they can't handle as much neglect. If you aren't on time with your coolant changes, or use the wrong coolant you will burn holes through the cylinders. I prefer the 1987 6.9 idi. I think it was the best idi ever. Take a cylinder bleed down test (google is your friend, aswell as harbor frieght) and if it smokes I'd pass. Some smoke at certain times is ok, like a small puff of white and blue right at start up is normal, but no billowing. White smoke is unused fuel, blue is oil. If it spews blue walk away. It should not smoke at all about 10 sec after start up. Let her warm for like 10 min to keep your rings in good shape.


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