# buying a van.. omg



## boxofrocks (Mar 15, 2012)

Considering a conversion or cargo van. I know nothing about cars. Anyone have any suggestions about what to look out for? I've been seeing a lot of new cargo vans that have a lot of miles is that no good? I don't know i'm high. It would be nice to hear from some experienced van go-abouters. I'm not looking to spend to much money. thanks folks!!!


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## Earth (Mar 15, 2012)

Gonna be honest: I bought a 1984 Ford E-350 conversion van that's diesel powered (6.9 ltr international non-turbo; dana 60 4.88 rear) which I picked up for say $900.00 or so... I've probably sunk $4000.00 into it and today it's a combination storage garage for some misc. speaker cabs (I live in a studio/gallery) and a dog house. Don't get me wrong, it's great - terriffic on fuel (20+ mpg highway) but very very very expensive to keep on the road mainatence wise., and being that it is a diesel - at 120,000 miles it is barely broken in...
What I did pick up more recently is a mint 1986 Ford Crown Vic LTD Country Squire station wagon (complete with paneled sides!!) which is actually even better when it comes to traveling, as it's a hell of a lot less suspicious looking but also faster and just as roomy (except you don't have the height obviously) keeping in mind I have the passenger seats folded - so sleeping in the back is no problem at all.
Parts are cheap and plentyful, and it also gets 20 mpg - on gas - (H.O. 5.0 SVO w/4 speed auto) which is a hell of alot cheaper than diesel out here...
I guess it boils down to what your plans are........................................


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## dprogram (Mar 15, 2012)

I've been looking for a long time so I understand. I know very little of vans but I do know a thing or two about vehicles in general. If the cargo van is a fleet van then it would have been maintained on a regular schedule and usually as good as the owners manual states. (No other living human on earth does that) So high miles are not so bad in that case b/c they will usually be interstate and highway miles mostly and the records should have been kept with the vehicle. On the other hand if its an owner selling it high miles aren't so bad either if he has records of repairs. Things you'll want to be aware of are: Most engines don't last more than 300k without some sort of internal damage being done but will still run. Anything with less than 200k with service records should be good. Same with transmissions. The small stuff matters too but it will have already gone out by 150k max...like starters, alternators, fuel pump, oil pump. So Check for leaks of any kind all around the engine bay while its running. Then drive it. Listen for odd sounds when you turn corners (popping or clicking) that would be bad CV joints. Sounds or jerking when the transmission shifts...transmission would be going out. Come back and whiles its turned off and the engine has cooled...usually a good 30 minutes so you don't get badly burned...crawl underneath it. Inspect the control arms...near the front where the steering is connected to the wheels. Look for broken bushings. Go to the back, check the rear differential...where the engine drive shaft connects to the bell housing (looks round and in the center) Look for seepage there and at both ends of the axle near the wheel. If those have seepage it means the bearings and drive train haven't been maintained. Then check the engine oil and make sure the oil actually has an oil consistency and there is no water in it which would indicate a cracked head or bad head gasket and is very costly. That should cover most things but get a carfax report. Do your research on the particular year model as well with Google...read reviews. If you do all of these and don't pay more than the car is actually worth (by checking online Kelly Blue Book) you should be great. 

Sorry that was really long and should be reformatted but write or print all this stuff down when you go and look and make sure you do it or you might end up with a bad deal. If you need me to send info your way I could (if I haven't already bought mine and I'm gone!) I hope this helps!


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## Earth (Mar 15, 2012)

...but then again, the mighty diesel van has twin 20 gal fuel tanks!!
What I'm hoping to do (with time being loosely defined) is convert one of the tanks to accept veggie fuel.
That would be the bomb!!


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## travelin (Mar 15, 2012)

its been my experience that buying an older vehicle that has been sitting for as little as two months often means that the battery, altenator, water pump might very well have to be replaced.

also, check the tires, even if they look brand new, look at the manufactor date, which can be found by doing a google search to see where the date is stamped into the tire and what it looks like. if they are over 3 years old i would pass. four new tires or six new tires if its dual rear wheels, will just destroy your funds.

there is nothing more frustrating than buying a vehicle and heading off across the country and get 300 miles on a hell run to somewhere that has a job waiting for you and first the frigging altenator goes out and a hundred miles later the water pump takes a dump. i know this for a fact!

in fact, unless you are not mechanically knowledgable enough to perform anything up to an engine or rear end change, my advise is to pass on an older, high mileage vehicle. this includes changing out wheel bearing, brakes, altenator, water pump, radiator, A-frame bushings, carb rebuild, sensor replacements, electrical rewiring, thermostat replacement, U-joints.

of course, most of you are young and have not spent countless hours under a vehicle or under the hood in rain, sleet, snow, mud, frozen ground or burning desert temperatures with inadequate tools tyring to repair a major breakdown so you will blow off advice, buy a clunker and learn for yourself!


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## boxofrocks (Mar 20, 2012)

haha thanks this is all very helpful. I only have two grand saved so far and I'm getting antsy to leave. Do you think that, that's not enough money to buy something reliable?


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## LeftCoast (Mar 26, 2012)

If you're going for a van, message me. I can hook you up with my conversion designs and schematics. You can buy yourself anything from a GMC, chevy van, ford e series, ram van, all of the schematics work for all makes. But that's not necessarily going to be a priority.

Mechanically,
You want a bitchin running van, you can spend a bit on replacing EVERYTHING that is critical, for maybe 500 bucks. So as long as the engine doesn't tick or knock, youre straight. I would go with an econoline or a chevy van 30. Those things are bitchin. I have owned 3 different vans and worked on plenty of others. Also, take into consideration that junkyards typically will have more and less of certain makes and compatible models. Ford E Series are awesome because you can almost always find damn near everything at any junkyard. Also, if you are quick with a wrench, you can break into asshole towing companies and fuck the piss outta their turf. I ripped off entire fucking tires and the head of an engine before. Try getting that shit over/under a fence hahaha. I would go with something that is more universal, so when problems do arise, you aren't forced to be fucked out on the road wherever you are. Triple A is also going to be your new best friend. totally worth investing in.
back to compatibility, if you are in the south, go with something that can take the heat. yota vans are bitchin for that, as are chevy vans. if you are up north, get something you can insulate easily. Ram van parts are pricy new, but there typically are a shitload of parts all over the nation if you just hitch to wherever your shit is needed to be picked outta the junkyard. 

Fresh specs:
Whenever I buy a used van (or any other vehicle for that matter) I go for something with around 100k on it. 200k on fords and diesels. Diesels are spendy to work on, but you can do so much with them. I have ran one on listerine before. REAL SHIT. you can kick the shit outta those things and nothings gonna get too fucked up. Compression as apposed to spark is always a plus, but there are cons you'll have to weigh out. Get something that you can afford to replace most of the electric, most of the fuel delivery system. You don't know what the fuck the previous owner did to it. Regardless of how fucked up shit is or pretty the chrome is, there are things i replace.

FIRST OIL CHANGE WITH VAN IN YOUR POSSESSION:
take that shit to fuckin sears. they have a chemical they clean out all the grit that only they can get. Some places do it, but for only 20-30 bucks your shit will be FAR less gritty. there after, learn how to change your own oil. Never go synthetic. EVER. oil is fucking oil, and you should change it every 2,500 for extended motor life or 3,000+ if you wanna run it hard and have it die on yuh in two years. Oil is easy. 
-Oil Filter
-Use a pop bottle to make a funnel by cutting the bottom off
-use a veggie oil container from a restaurant to dump out your old oil into or whatever can hold as much as 6 or 7 quarts of oil.
-make sure you don't fuck the threading up on your oil pan bolt (i have done it. one too many beers and ended up fucking myself, just looking out)
-if your oil filter is super fucking stuck on that shit, puncture it with a flathead and use the screwdriver as leverage to get that fucker off (DONT WORRY IF YOU THINK ITS STUCK) it never is.

oil is easy. once you get it it's one of the simplest things that will extend the life outta your van.
My partner has a van that has 400,000 miles on it. NO ENGINE REBUILD. it's a 1981 ford van. things a beast.

Is there latency with the gas? 
Replace your spark plugs, make sure the distance between the metal tip is adjusted accordingly.
If cheap, replace fuel pump, replace fuel delivery things, fuel regulator, etc.

Do you plan on using your battery (under the hood) to power things like lights and shit?
Get a bitchin alternator. Top of the line, the more amps the better. it won't hurt your car, and only offers you more versatility for what you can do down the road. You can usually find 110 or 120 amp alternators for around 70 bucks NEW. Don't ever get used electric shit. Unless you are just doing your own wiring. It ain't as bad as all my ranting seems. It's relatively easy once you stick your head under the hood and ask yourself and others what each component does, and why it does it.

EXHAUST
if you have an exhaust leak, DONT FLIP OUT JUST YET. most vans can get an exhuast leak and as long is the pressure loss isn't too substantial you can run it for the life of the vehicle. sure you might lose half a mile to the gallon, but that is better than spending 600 bucks on a whole new manifold.

You trying to get laid on the road and be discrete?
Shocks, baby. shocks.

RADIATOR (Unless you're one of those air cooled driving idiots)
does your radiator have spots where there is substantial rust or green spots? YOUR SHIT HAS A FUCKIN HOLE MAN. i typically steal radiators, and sell my old ones to scrappers. They are pricey as fuck. But a radiator shouldnt be a reason not to get a van. It's easily replacable. Also, when you get your hands on the oppertunity, do a full coolant swap. it's always good to do. I did mine in an hour. Easy as fuckin pie. Youtube is now another one of your best friends. Also, replace water pump. it always is good to. don't chance a shitty pump. Serpantine belt and timing chain are always good to replace, but only if they really need it. Ford straight sixes dont have timing chains or belts and are gear driven (FUCK YEAH!)

ANOTHER AWESOME IDEA
if you are able, but yourself a DOUBLE of your vehicle. it doesn't necesarily have to run, but if you for someone who has land, or you got your own, buy one to part out for yourself. I did this with my friends chevy van for him, and it has saved his ass countless times. Great for having. Also, when you use up almost all of it, you can part the rest out or scrap it or do whatever the fuck you feel would be satisfactory.


PRECAUTIONS NOT TO BUY A VAN
1. If the engine is knocking hard, STAY THE FUCK AWAY. it's not worth it. Thrown rods will fuck you in the ass. Also, your block is more likely to seize if you hear knocking. No good man.
2. Tranny skips hard when shifting gears (or in the case of an automatic tranny delayed shifting or scraping sounds) BAD TRANNY, but if you can get a tranny from a pull apart that aint to raped, DO IT.
3. If it creeks when you turn your axels are FUCKED. alignment can also be an issue, but typically can be done for under 60 bucks if you find someone with a lift on craigslist and you can coax em into doin it cheap. ALWAYS offer beer to at home mechanics. makes a hell of a difference in my experiences. 

anyway, hope this helps. let me know how your van comes along 


anyway, i'm ranting,
if you message me, i can raid craigslist, and tell you the best ones, their pros and cons, and then you can have yourself or some mech savvy bloke check it all out.


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## Deleted member 2626 (Mar 27, 2012)

i was on foot for three weeks in new mexico but im back in pa now and got my van from my rents house again to rubber tramp back out west. its a 1995 chevy g20 awesome van plenty of room for me and my dog. i just bought new tires today and i have still to do an oil change and transmission fluid. oil change is definitely the easiest thing vans sit so high you have plenty of room. having a van to live in after being on foot a lot is sooo nice. also i have to use my dogs service tags wayyy less beause he can stay in the van while i eat or just straight up traveling. good luck a van is a good choice i lived in a ranger with a cap for a bit and that kinda sucked.


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## LeftCoast (Mar 29, 2012)

i hear yuh man. being on foor really doesn't seem to harsh, but once you get in a van you get all super comfy. sometimes i worry that if i get too comfy imma end up a homebum or something


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## Deleted member 2626 (Mar 29, 2012)

haha thats why i switch back and forth and even when living in the van i still will sleep outside when i want to. They are way more comfotable than laying on a pad on the hard ground. i couldnt say which i like better but the van is just easy to crawl into and be pretty damn safe


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## LeftCoast (Apr 4, 2012)

I hear yuh on that mate. what town you in now mate? i'm in seattle. if you ever wanna come out and get together, i got a buncha buddies here and i am very fond of meeting new people and sharing stories and drinkin so hit a nigger up


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## outskirts (Apr 4, 2012)

I once considered saving to buy an old delivery truck to convert, but then I remembered how internal combustion engines
absolutely hate me! seriously, they do!


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